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A lighter touch


Light bike parts

Corridori’s Brian
Curtis is LondonCycleSport’s cyclo cross guru and he was nudged into action by a quick chat to give us a few tips about reducing your bike’s weight.

Click to see big bigger

There was a time when the market was awash with colourful Ti and alloy bolts,
but now you will need to hunt harder and maybe venture onto E-Bay to find such goodies.

Brian’s tips
Where it’s safe to run them (tried and tested by me on my Road/Cross/MTB bikes)

Chainsets

  • 5 x 5 Alloy chainring bolts,
  • 2 x Crank bolts (depending on model, but its advisable to use the steel ones
    for removal/replacement of the cranks)

    Brakes Pair Road

  • 2 x 5mm Cable pinch bolts,
  • 4 x 4mm/5mm Brake Blocks (if possible),
  • 2 x 10mm nut on the back of the Dual Pivot bolt (Also campy now use an alloy
    star driven Allen bolt to hold the brakes to the frame/fork on there Record
    Skeleton Brakes

    Weineman Cross Brakes per brake/wheel

  • 2 x 10mm nuts for holding blocks in place,
  • 2 x 5mm bolts for holding brakes to frame/fork,
  • 1 x 8mm nut for holding the straddle cable in place

    Click to see big bigger
    Mechs Front
  • 1 x 4mm Cable pinch bolt,
  • 1 x 4mm Bolt for holding to the frame/band,
  • 1 x 4mm Band clamp bolt, 2 x adjuster screws

    Mechs Rear

  • 4mm Cable pinch bolt,
  • 2 x adjuster screws,
  • 1 x rear screw for adjusting angle of mech, break off bolt (not advisable for
    Cross or MTB bikes as they come under more pressure and are more likely to snap
    off),

  • 2 x jockey wheel bolts (Shimano used to and Campy still do on there Record model
    use Hollow Steel jockey wheel bolts to shave a few grams off)

    Plus

  • 4 x 4mm Bottle cage bolts, you can get super light weight nylon ones
  • 1 x 5mm Ahead top cap
  • 1 x 4mm bolt for holding the cable guide to the bottom of your bottom bracket
    shell

  • 2 x 4mm/5mm Brake lever clamp bolts on mtb’s and some top levers on cross
    bikes

  • 2 x 3mm/4mm/5mm Shifter clamp bolts on mtb’s
  • 2 x 4mm/5mm Bar-End clamp bolts for mtb’s

    So how much weight can you save?
    Brian tells us quite a bit, but we intend to return to this theme in the future
    where we will see how much weight we can knock off with a lightening kit.

    Brian update (9/2)
    Mr Mer makes a good pint in the Forum about the "non use" of alloy
    brake cable clamp bolts, quite a lot of Pro’s used to use the SRP Alloy versions
    in the late 90’s (Motorola for example had a complete set of blue bolts supplied
    to them).

    Tony Rominger was another weight fanatic even going as far as having 7 or
    8 different bikes for the TDF with different bikes for the TT (a least 2 diff
    models) flat road stages (again think 2), hilly road stages (lost count) with
    a few Colnago’s with different coloured bolts, skewers, bottle cages (remember
    the old Elite Cuissi cages that came in loads of colours?) he even went as
    far as to start drilling out anything he could. (ala Merckx style)

    Rominger used lightweight chainrings, rear mechs, brakes, brake levers, gear
    levers, seat pins, and he was one of the few "modern day" cyclists
    to realise that you make the bikes as light as possible then go and slap 2
    great big bottles full of liquid on your bike, so he only ran 1 bottle cage
    for the high mountain stages and normal brake levers with down tube gear shifters.
    I used to run the Chiappuchi/Pantani set up of 1 Rear Ergo lever, 1 Record
    carbon brake lever and a front mech down tube shifter on my road bike as it
    was way lighter and you could get round that annoying front mech rubbing on
    the chain noise.

     
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