So here goes with the first bits on the bike. The Aheadset bearings, forks and seatpost. Yes you read that right – seatpost.
Before we start I’ll freely confess I wasn’t the best bike shop mechanic ever (apologies to anyone who frequented Richard’s Bikes in Exeter in the early 90’s). There are probably some superb mechanics out there with some great tips or reasons that we’re doing stuff wrong / not as easily as we could. Please pitch in at any point with suggestions on postcards / pedal wrenches etc.
What?
Plugging the seatpost in first means you have a handy handle to clamp in work stands and stuff while building the rest of the bike. It’s most useful on really light bikes where tubes can be crushed by work stand clamps, or curious shaped suspension bikes where there is nowhere else to clamp them.
Which?
We went for Thomson’s Elite post. £59.95 from E Reece 0121 4462600
Why?
Light enough, but a sturdy fore and aft two bolt clamp. Before you ask, yes it is bent. It gives the correct layback of the saddle but still keeps the two bolt security. It also helps to hide the slightly disjointed look of the SID shock back end.
We’d also definitely be tempted by Easton and Race Face, but we’ll probably be using them elsewhere.
How?
Check you’ve got exactly the right diameter for your frame – it’s printed on the seatpost, and check it’s long enough to give the right saddle height. Slap on some grease to stop it seizing into the frame, plug it in and bolt up the collar. Job done.
Before we forget.
Work stands are really useful for build ups and ongoing maintenance. We’ve got a Minoura one www.zyro.eu.com, which has been great but there are loads of other height/weight/clamp design options.
In terms of lube, I can’t actually remember what is in the grease gun at the moment, but the ‘home-grown by real mountain bikers’ range of Finesse stuff seems to work great. Makt and Rock ‘n’ Roll also come recommended.
Aheadsets
What?
The bearing that sits in the headtube of your bike to give smooth steering.
A game of two halves, it comes with a lower cup which press fits (tight squeeze no glue or bolts required) into the bottom half of the headtube. The lower race is press fitted onto your fork just above the crown. Smooth rolling bearings sit between them.
The same two race set up plugs into the top, but the upper race slides onto the fork steerer. To keep the set up from wobbling a bolted cap then fits into the top of the fork which screws into a ‘star fangled nut inside the fork crown. Tightening the top cap into this presses down the stem, washers and upper bearing race for a smooth running set up. (more later)
Which?
Chris King No-threadset £127.99, Evolution Imports 0208 2900807, www.bromleybike.com
Why?
In the land of MTB legend there is only one headset to consider – Chris King. Stories of eternal silky smooth motion, princesses saved from dragons, same headsets being used on seventy consecutive bikes by four generations of the same family etc.
Race Face, FSA, Dia Compe and others make some great headsets, and we very nearly plumped for the brand new unit from Hope, but there’s only one company that actually manufactures its own bearings – hence the high cost.
The bottom line is I trash headsets, the only one I’ve never touched is the Chris King on my road bike and I’ve had that 3 years. Several component killers I know also say the same. Knackered headsets can ruin rides and frames so think of it as an investment. Besides I felt like spoiling myself with some jewellery, OK!
How?
If you’re careful you can slam in headset cups with a rubber mallet and a couple of pieces of wood, but that didn’t seem right when we’re dealing with £120 of precision engineering. Plus if you don’t get the two cups in exactly level, the headset will never turn smoothly however expensive it is. Proper headset presses are well beyond home toolbox prices, so we swallowed our pride and took it to our local bike shop – thanks Boneshakers of Ripon. They even had the special caps needed to fit Chris King units without crushing the bearings. Job done, quality assured.
Getting forked
Next step is fitting the fork – which also includes getting the right stem and working out what height you want your handlebars.
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