Words: Ali Todd (with the help of a certain William Shakespeare)

This is what I’m on about. There are so many reasons to get out on the bike even while the weather remains so grim. Muddy legs is just a minor side-effect.
Great day on the bikes thanks to @flyupdownhill.

If we are mark’d to die, we are now

To do our country loss; and if to live,

The fewer men, the greater share of honour.

- Lines penned by William Shakespeare over four hundred years ago. That immortal, nigh-unbeatable battle speech, designed to raise spirits and instill courage into the hearts of the soldiers.

I say “nigh unbeatable”, because what you’re about to read is going to have a go at beating it. A good, hearty stab. And if I’ve learnt anything in mountain biking, it’s the trick of remaining excessively confident, until you realise you’re well and truly beaten. Then find an excuse.

Here goes…

Comrades in Spokes,

We are called here today, bound by our common cause. Our unbreakable bonds, our rousing desire to defend what we love most. This is, of course, the mountain bike. Let me tell you, brothers and sisters, brethren of the community – clips or flats; wide bar or narrow; 26 or 29; bib shorts or… erm… not… that we are under threat. Our very lifestyle is in danger. The enemy advances. It is on our doorstep. The zeitgeist breaches the threshold of every trail centre in the land.

This enemy is not the road cycling community – indeed, on this matter we will align ourselves in hope of winning the battle. It is not the militant, wooly-sock-endowed rambler. It is not even the rear shock. (We accepted that years ago – keep up.) It is, in fact, much more potent. It is all around us. It whittles our numbers down, striking at our forces as we speak.

This hideous enemy is, of course, the weather. Winter. Rain. Mud. Indeed, ourselves. Even the word “winter” sends shivers down my spine – as does the literary style in the previous few paragraphs, so we’ll ditch that one for now. Back to the point – and it is a serious one – something needs to be done. I go out for a ride and find the trail centre half empty. So empty, indeed, that the café’s waiting time for warm chips scrapes below half an hour. Gone are the days of having trouble finding space to park your bike. Far removed are the memories of being able to show off to other riders, as even David Attenborough and his crack team would have trouble sniffing out other riders at all. Why, as mountain bikers, do we fall at the first hurdle of winter? As soon as the leaves start to look a bit orange at the edges, it seems half the riders disappear from view, only to be found hibernating in the forums…

This is what I’m trying to address. So here, after a long, rambling introduction is the main body of this piece on motivation:

Let’s start with racing. I’ve got a love/ hate relationship with racing. As much as I love the fitness training for cross-country, the line analysis for downhill, and the bike preparation for both, I do occasionally feel like I can’t be bothered… It takes time. It takes time sitting looking at the entry list for a race, considering the logistics of getting to wherever it is, the cost of entry, and the ritual of watching the weather forecast religiously – and yet I can’t actually stop myself. It’s a bug – enter one race and it’s bitten you. There’s nothing better – really – than the build-up for a race, and the benefits of the preparatory training are huge. Most of all however, it means it gets you off the sofa or out of bed: the approaching deadline is something you can’t stop and you have to be prepared for. It’s forced motivation. And this is where I suggest you start. Yes, you – the one looking at this when you should be out there getting soaked and covered in mud. Humour me. Try it. Here’s the British Cycling website. www.britishcycling.org.uk/events

Moving onwards, throwing ourselves firmly towards the uniform lines of the enemy, we hit the second Pillar of Motivation. It joins hand-in-hand with the first. It taps into the travelling culture of the nomadic past as a species – it is, of course, going to new places.

As much as I love the Forest of Dean (a ten minute drive from the door of the BM office), turning up at a trail centre with no idea of what’s in store is amazing. I spent a few weeks at Glentress (the Scottish borders) last summer, and although the thought of the drive was intimidating, the thought of all those trails was a great way to get myself out on the bike, and come the trip, it was a good feeling to be fit enough to ride the trails without aching every night. We live in such an amazing country for mountain biking, and the trails are everywhere. Check Bike Magic’s ‘routes’ section to get some ideas, then get to it. Pack your bike and your kit, find an obliging B&B (or just go for a day trip) and hit the road. You won’t regret it, I promise. Even if it is always pouring with rain.

My third Pillar is one the conservatives (small C) among us won’t like. It’s change. I’m guilty of this. I was one of those who looked at a 29er a few years back and just saw a combination of veganism, cyclo cross and a worrying little beard approaching over the horizon. I was proved wrong. Try something new.

Riding only XC trails can feel a little stale. Equally, just riding downhill for months on end can begin to feel like a drag. The answer, therefore, is to mix it up. This isn’t just a tip to avoid boredom and keep riding in the deep mid-winter though, it will make you a better rider. The amount of times you see people struggling to go down anything approaching a 5% gradient in cross-country races is amazing, and to think it could all be fixed by venturing out onto the downhill trails and spending time learning how to handle a bike at speed… It’s that simple. The same, of course, applies to the downhillers who find themselves out of breath after a small flat section: the benefits of trail rides are obvious. The mountain bike legend Brian Lopes is a prime case in point: after racking up more gravity-based World Cup wins than any other male rider, he tried his hand at XC Eliminator in the 2012 World Cup and blew the competition away. Humour me. Give it a go. Even if you feel out of place among full-faced pyjama-suited youths, stick at it. I have, and it’s done me a lot of good. Heck, I even went to an indoor skate park last week!

At risk of sounding like a boy scout escaped from camp a week early, I’ll use the phrase “Always be prepared”, because, neckerchief or not, it’s true. A few things can make a winter ride so much less threatening, and a good jacket is top of the list. It doesn’t have to be a fashion item at £8,000,000 – Gore and Endura make some excellent jackets for reasonable money. If it’s waterproof and warm, most of the pain will subside and you’ll find yourself able to enjoy the ride without concentrating on the small river progressing slowly down your spine. Next, some waterproof overshoes or socks. I prefer socks as I like to ride flat pedals a lot, and I’ve found none better than SealSkins. Various thicknesses, and complete protection from the elements, so even if your shoes do squelch, you’ll have no idea. Waterproof shorts (Endura again for me) are also essential unless you enjoy feeling the icy puddles return to you from your back wheel as if magnetised, joining the spine trickle to create a river. Or possibly an estuary. Either way, not something you want. I don’t like feeling like a moving water feature.

Pillar Five. Competitiveness: friends, and beating them up hills.

For those of you who don’t read Dirt Magazine, Steve Jones is the deputy editor and bike-tester-in-chief. I spend a good bit of time riding bikes with him – especially trail bikes – and I’ve had a taste of what it feels like to be able to beat him up hills. It’s great fun, but I’ve let it slip over the winter. Anyway, this isn’t just my story – we’ve all got those old rivalries with good friends, and if nothing else gives you that warm feeling, being able to hear the sound of their panting getting further and further away is enough to motivate anyone to get out and train.

Now, every motivational speech needs a big crescendo; a peak of motivational prowess. But then again if you’re a speech expert and you’ve read the last thousand words you’ll also know that my speech-writing skills are unspeakably bad, so don’t expect anything. I’ll give it a shot, though. Without further ado, the Pillar of Mud, and learning to love its sloppy, messy goodness.

There is a great deal of irony in the way mountain bikers fear mud. Living in the Northern Hemisphere, we’re bound to get at least six months of it (more in the yUK), and yet it stumps so many of us. Here is my battle cry to you: Learn to love the mud! The daunting prospect of this rallying point isn’t as bad a Shakespeare (the old pessimist) would make out – firstly, how about trying a set of flat pedals with some 5:10 shoes (the grippiest going)? Those off-camber sections won’t be nearly as terrifying. Next, invest in some good mud tyres (Specialized Storm 2.0 is my current favourite). It’s not like riding on dry ground, but it’s not too far removed. Within a few rides, the mud will seem thoroughly appealing – learning to slide through the corners and tackle the steep sections at pace is so much fun. Flat pedals just give you that confidence that many people struggle to find on clips.

So here, fellowship of the Headset and the Bottom Bracket, we arrive. Our destiny is in our hands. Do we crumble – as others have around us – and become the fair-weather rider? Or do we find a way around it? Do we submit to the pressure, or overcome the trial? If we join together and conquer it, crowned in victory, we can feel… smug.

I leave you, having written this most ridiculous of articles, with my adaptation of the crescendo-end (crescendo-endo?) of the excerpt from the speech at the top. I say adaptation, I mean crude adulteration and general ruining. Anyway, print it off and stick it on your fridge as a heartening cry for the world to see*.

 We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;

For he to-day that rides his bike with me

Shall be my brother; be he ne’er so vile,

This day shall gentle his condition;

And gentlemen in England now-a-bed

Shall think themselves accurs’d they were not here,

And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks

That rode with us upon this winter day.

*Actually, if you do print it off and stick it on your fridge, have your head examined. Also send the picture to me, because, for your sheer lunacy, I might just send you sympathetic compensation in form of a bike part.

The Scott Minus gloves are brilliant in their ability to keep hands warm. They aren’t completely waterproof but Scott can be forgiven for that – they are the best all-round winter riding gloves we’ve tested so far.
Photo © Ben Winder

Personally I’ve had a set of these for the whole winter so far, and although it hasn’t always been minus degrees, the changeable conditions have only led me to like the gloves even more. Let me tell you why:

Winter in Britain can be cold. It can also be very wet. This year has been more along the lines of the latter. I have a particular problem with wet hands and feet – you could almost call it a phobia the feeling is so strong – something to do with standing in fields in sideways rain by day and camping in flooded tents by night at bike races all through my youth. Anyway, the first points won by Scott’s Minus gloves is for keeping the rain off my digits, they aren’t 100% waterproof by any means but they do enough to keep hands dry on even the wettest of British bike rides.

The second top-score for the gloves is in their ability to keep the cold out, perhaps an obvious specification for a winter glove but something that not all brands have mastered yet. I’ve ridden in these on the coldest day of the winter so far and didn’t get numb hands. The Gore Windstopper material that the top of these is made from clearly works. If that isn’t enough, Scott also make a liner (sold separately), a soft, thin under-glove, that matches the gloves to ensure that the Minus’s cannot be faulted on their warmth-retaining abilities.

The overall construction quality is good, after a couple of months of riding the gloves show no signs of faltering in the way of holes or rogue stitches. I’ve had a couple of good offs riding in the recent sloppy conditions around the Forest of Dean and I can report that they’ve also stood up to the Klinsmann test…

The defining feature though, the Minus’s crowning glory, is the feel you get through to the bars. There really aren’t many winter gloves that can boast warmth with thin enough material to still allow you to feel which control you’re manhandling, but these ones do and moreover they feel not much bulkier than a normal (summer) riding glove.

Several other members of the Bike Magic office staff use these and swear by them, so it’s not just me who is sold on them.

Great gloves that offer warmth and feel along with quality construction. Highly recommended as a winter glove.

Pros

Keep your hands warm
Don’t limit feel of the handlebars

Cons

For extreme cold weather the liner may be necessary, which is sold separately

Price: £42.99
More information: Scott Minus Gloves

What Scott say about the Minus gloves:

This is what the Strathpuffer is all about… Pain, suffering and glory!

Take it away, Jason:

2013 STRATHPUFFER

Words: Jason Miles
Photo: Budge

“…they might wear classic Reeboks or knackered Converse or tracky bottoms tucked in socks…” sings Alex Turner s as I’m riding across a quarter-mile stretch of downhill forest road, both hands on the bars, concentrating hard as the studded front tyre digs into the thick sheet of ice that separates my bike from the gravel road underneath. I’ve got a normal tyre on the back wheel which means I’ve got to stay seated when the icy trail heads upwards, which isn’t as easy as it sounds given I’d decided in my wisdom to race on a singlespeed.

We’re around halfway through the Strathpuffer 24 hour race and I’m apparently in second place. Also, for the first time in a race, I’m racing with an MP3 player with a fairly randomly-selected playlist of top stuff which doesn’t seem to be giving me much of an advantage in the race itself but I’m probably entertaining a few marshals as I speed past while singing all out of tune…

I’m racing with an MP3 player with a fairly randomly-selected playlist of top stuff which doesn’t seem to be giving me much of an advantage in the race itself but I’m probably entertaining a few marshals as I speed past while singing all out of tune…

In the previous few weeks I’d pretty much convinced myself that I stood little chance of worrying the solo podium, a lack of time and an uncharacteristically relaxed approach meant that I’d focused mainly on singlespeed-specific physical strength and my core rather than big miles and nine hour training rides. I’d learnt from last year’s Strathpuffer that trying to manhandle a one-geared bike around this course for 24 hours, while it’s not impossible (I’d finished 5^th last time after all), was going to involve some hard preparation in the gym so that I’d have some long-lasting power ‘up top’ as well as in the legs.

Only a handful of hours after the 10am start of the race and it went dark – as it does in the far north of Scotland in January. The course had started off slippery in places but mostly had a nice grippy layer of snow however a few hours later the weak sunshine and hundreds of tyres meant that most of the ice had gone. Those riders who had ice tyres were taking them off but I remembered the weather forecast for rain and sleet during the night and figured that this would probably cause the course to get icy again so left my (one and only) studded ice tyre on the front wheel for the duration. There was still some ice knocking around and I wanted to keep my few remaining teeth and sure enough, as soon as ‘proper’ night time arrived so did the drizzle and the sleet which caused large amounts of ice to form on long sections of the course. It didn’t matter to me though, my tungsten spikes were digging in while Ray Keith pummelled my inner ears with old-school jungle.

…as soon as ‘proper’ night time arrived so did the drizzle and the sleet which caused large amounts of ice to form on long sections of the course.

By now my upper body is really starting to feel the effects of well over 14 hours of hauling on the handlebars and brute-forcing the bike up and over the steep uphill parts of the course while my wrists and hands were starting to complain about the lack of a suspension fork up front. I’m mostly having to stand when climbing, as you do on a singlespeed, however a new problem now is that a long fireroad climb near the start of the lap is so icy that I have to remain seated and try to pedal smoothly (in a gear that’s too high for that sort of thing) to maintain at least some traction from the rear wheel. All I want now is gears. But I haven’t brought any.

Elsewhere in the race, Dave had had a big crash on some ice and retreated to his tent with some painkillers. A short time later, I moved into the lead. The abrasive ‘puffer mud is all over my gloves so every time I wipe my face it feels like my skin is being attacked by a belt sander. This race is tough in ways you can only discover for yourself.

I don’t know for certain but my head is telling me that there are lads on geared bikes who must be catching me up. I feel like I’m starting to crawl around the course, which was probably an illusion caused by my slow cadence and the reality was that I was extending the gap to second place…. I’m doing sums in my head, as you do in the final hours of an endurance race. How many laps to I need to do? Can I be caught? If I was caught, who would be the most likely rider to catch me and would I be able to respond to an attack? Paranoia sets in. Black Sabbath pops up in my headphones. I force a Clif Turbo Shot gel down and immediately start to ride faster – the whopping dose of caffeine reigniting my senses and making me snarl a bit. Not long to go now. Stand up. Keep your back straight.

Paranoia sets in. Black Sabbath pops up in my headphones.

The other riders behind me were busy kicking chunks out of each other while I was doing just enough to stay in the lead with my rhythmic, low-cadence grunting and grinding up the hills and grimacing down again. The ice in some sections of the course was starting to resemble a glacier and some of those riders without ice tyres looked like they were really suffering now. Dave was breaking hearts as he emerged from his tent, remounted his bike and immediately rode a series of very fast laps and overtook a number of riders who had previously crept in front of him and moved himself back into 3^rd place.

I was ready to head out to do one final lap to the sound of “Get Ready” by the Temptations, but as I entered the timing tent I was told that I’d done enough. I wasn’t entirely convinced but Debbie, waiting at the finish with a warm coat and a hug, assured me it was all over and that I couldn’t be caught.

I’d won the Strathpuffer with a record number of laps on a stupid bike with one gear and no suspension. What an idiot. It was dead good though because I got to stand on the podium twice – once for the solo win and once for the singlespeed win. I felt like I was on Crackerjack.

Dave maintained his position in 3^rd place and elsewhere in the race, Phil and Budge had put in a storming effort to claim 3^rd place in the pairs. Once again every Team JMC rider had reached the podium in every category they entered.

I’d won the Strathpuffer with a record number of laps on a stupid bike with one gear and no suspension. What an idiot.

Finally, and I quite rightly say this every time, results like this are impossible to achieve without the devotion and tenacity of a solid and well-organised pit crew. Debbie, Angela and Wayne looked after all of us and our bikes throughout the entire race and catered for our every whim without hesitation. Actually getting to the race and having somewhere for pit crew to keep warm wouldn’t happen without the support and resources of Team JMC and being able to compete at this level is made possible by the amazing help I’m given by my sponsors Exposure Lights, Mount Zoom, Teko Socks, Squirt Lubes, Rolf Prima Wheels and Clif Bar. You guys all rule.

Read more about Jason’s bike riding experiences and find out about the team he rides for over on his blog, 40psi.

Full Strathpuffer results can be found here.

Glacier Glove Super G Race Gloves.

GLACIER GLOVE SUPER G RACE GLOVE REVIEW

Words: Carsick John

It’s rare that something as mundane as a pair of gloves can get you emotional, but the moment I first saw the Super G Race Gloves by Glacier Glove I had a rush of emotions, mostly: hatred, fear and panic.

Most of my mental vitriol was directed at the outrageous look of the gloves which is somewhere between serial killing toxic avenger and fetish scuba diver.

In Glacier Glove’s own words, “This glove is the best race specific glove we have. Good for cold and wet racing or extremely hard efforts in the cold and wet.”  So these gloves are squarely aimed at the racing and endurance set and not your casual trail rider. With this in mind I donned exhibit A & B and headed to the woods.

On the bike the Glacier Gloves have no issues with warmth, but feel on the grips is slightly compromised.

It was minus 10 degrees and 5 minutes into the new Ice Age when I set off on the first (and in my mind only) test ride, safe in the knowledge that with temperatures this cold no one would be outside to see me wearing the gloves.

My riding buddy Edam (not his real name) was the benchmark for the test, wearing a pair of standard long finger gloves and a growing sense of humour, referring to me as ‘Marigold’ for the duration of the ride.

We set about our mission, which was a chilling 10km loop of single track. Once riding, the added wind chill took less than a minute for all of our fingers and thumbs to be completely cold & frozen.

After less than 10 minutes on the bike however, the gloves started to kick in and a small miracle happened, my fingers came back to life and the threat of frostbite disappeared.

OK, they are a little odd looking, but if you suffer with cold hands then you won’t be worried.

Not so for Edam’s fingers in the standard gloves, which remained firmly frozen for the whole ride and which still struggled to hold a pint even after we’d decamped to the warmth of the pub.

I wouldn’t say these gloves are exactly warm in this kind of temperature but the Glacier Glove is definitely effective against the cold and a massive improvement on frozen digits.

There is a slight draw back to the neoprene material however, as even though these gloves are claimed to be super thin they still feel bouncy when you ride, the 2mm thick neoprene making even the thinnest grips feel spongy and big. They also have a tendency to give you a strange sweaty palm feeling, but that’s still a small price to pay if you ride regularly in the cold and wet.

Intrigued by these ugly yet highly effective gloves, I decided to go Eskimo and see what kind of temperatures these gloves could take on.

Finding myself a frozen lake I made a small fishing hole with a hammer and plunged my Glacier Gloved hands into the abyss, whilst timing the whole sorry episode.

The result was quite amazing.

Initially I thought the whole event would be over in 15 minutes, but not so. Even with prolonged plunging into the frozen water my hands never got cold, wet or frozen. They really do work.

Surprisingly, Carsick John had to abort this part of the test not due to frostbite but boredom – his fingers were neither cold nor wet.

For me the conclusion of this test is clear, do not judge a book by its cover. Whilst these gloves will scare passing strangers and get you untold grief from your riding chums they’re highly effective against extreme cold and wet.

The Glacier Gloves are clearly not for everyone, but as they’re aimed at racers, who should be caring more about function than form anyway, they have to score very highly. Of course they would fair well for those who aren’t racing and simply need to keep their hands warm too, it’s just a matter of taste as to whether you’d feel good riding in them regularly.

For me emotions run high with these gloves but after the test I have nothing but warmth, love and happiness towards ‘The Marigolds’.

Available in sizes S to XL, the cost is £49.99 and not surprisingly they are…in stock.

Extremely effective against cold and wet.

Turn your grips into spongy tubes.
They make you look scary.

Price: £49.99
More info: Glacier Glove Super G Race Glove
UK distributor: 2Pure

Winter is here. So too is the rain and mud we associate with it. Make sure you prepare your bike properly and you’ll find yourself much more inclined to get out riding. Photo: Billy Thackray

The trouble with riding through the winter, with all that mud, rain and potentially ice and snow, is the damage such conditions can do to your pride and joy. However, with a few precautions there’s nothing to stop you smiling right through the winter and enjoying every muddy mile of it.

Keep it clean!

An obvious one this, but it needs stating. Mechanical parts on a mountain bike don’t take too kindly to being caked in mud and still asked to work flawlessly. Metal and water don’t mix, but regular and thorough cleaning will prevent rapid deterioration.

Use the time cleaning your bike to carefully inspect it. There’s a lot more wear and tear on the many components of your bike in winter. In particular, pay attention chain, cassette and chainring teeth, cables, brake pads, bottom bracket and headset and pivot bearings. Spot any potential problems before they become a bigger issue during a ride.

Tyre choice

Lightly treaded tyres might be great in the summer but show them a bit of mud and they’ll hoist up a white flag and surrender. Now is the time to invest in some tyres better suited to the muddy conditions of the winter. We’re not going to start making tyre recommendations here, we just don’t have the space to get into this debate.

Onza Greina tyre – perfect for muddy trail riding. Click over to our tyres feature to find out more…

So have a look at our roundup of the 13 best mud tyres here.

If you’re still unsure, a good place to start is to see what local riders are using, or ask a club or bike shop in your area. There’s nothing like local knowledge to find the best tyres suited to the particular demands of your nearest trails.

Tyre pressure

Along with tyre choice, tyre pressure is hugely important when tackling inhospitable terrain. Generally you want to go with a little less air pressure to provide you with more traction when it gets muddy. Like tyre choice though, it can be dependent on your local terrain. Do you ride somewhere rocky or rooty? And the tyres you choose will influence the pressure. Our advice is don’t be afraid to experiment until you find a good balance.

Lube your chain

Choose a lube designed for wet weather conditions, as any oil can quickly and easily be washed off the chain when riding through deep snow and slush. To ensure your bike runs smoothly, make sure to lube the chain before and after each ride. There’s a huge choice of lubes but generally a wet lube will be better suited to riding in mud. If it’s dry and frozen a dry lube will work well, but dry lubes need more regular application.

With all the mud and water getting at your drivetrain, it’s more important now than at any other time of the year to keep moving parts well lubed. Photo: Billy Thackray

Mudguards

There will undoubtedly be a lot of mud and crap being thrown up into the air and much of it will land on your body, which (as anyone who has experienced this will know) is very unpleasant. So stay warm and dry with a decent front mudguard. It’ll remove the need to scrape grit out of your eyes on a regular basis if nothing else.

Okay, so we know they’re unfashionable and all, but a rear mudguard can also provide a good first line of defense against the slop coating you from head to toe. We’d certainly always step out with some sort of front guard at the very least.

All that mud build up isn’t going to help matters. Wash your bike regularly to at least get the big chunks of mud off – it’ll save weight on the bike and make the ride more fun. Be careful though: viciously blasting at bearings with a jet-wash will flush all the grease out. Photo: Chris Jackson

Avoid rust

Treating those components likely to rust quickly with a corrosion preventative such as ACF50 will make sure your bike lasts the winter, and that under the encrusted dirt lies a gleaming, unsullied machine just waiting for the restorative flush of hot, water and a decent, bike-specific, cleaning agent.

Carry your essentials

Having a mechanical is bad enough at the best of times, but when it’s pouring with rain and your toes are frozen, it’s the last thing you want to deal with. Make sure to carry all the essential tools and spares you need to keep your bike rolling on a ride. At the very least carry a spare tube, decent pump, tyre levers if you need them, and a high quality multitool with a chain breaker. Other things to consider are spare brake pads, as all that grit and water will wear through quickly. A spare mech hanger and a few spare chain links can be a good move too; mud has a tendency to crunch drivetrains…

Feeling the cold? Check out our recent Essential Guide to base layers here.

My Indian adventure and end of season racing in Spain soon eroded my off season and before I realized it was already November and I had not really stopped. I am not complaining though as the adventures were all so much fun, but I now really needed a break from riding but I also wanted to start training again for next season.

Tracy and boyfriend James Richards at the British Cycling Gala Dinner

I must admit that one of my big faults in my training is not being able to rest. I always like to be busy and I love riding my bike so taking time off is never easy. However this time I really felt as though I needed to. The Indian trip had taken its toll.

Two weeks off the bike flew by pretty quickly with unpacking bags and starting to plan for next season taking up most of my time. I also had an invite to the British Cycling Gala Dinner. It’s a dinner held every four years to mark the success of that year’s Olympics but also the past four years of international success and my World Champs title in 2010 secured my invite.

I have to say it was an honour to be part of this special occasion especially with such a year of success for British sport and in particular cycling and to be among what are now household sporting names such as Bradley Wiggins and Chris Hoy.

An evening of good food, some great video reviews of the year and some very funny interviews on stage with the big names made for a very enjoyable evening. For me it was also a very inspiring occasion that instilled such a sense of pride and even more desire to get out there and be as successful as I can be in the future.

Social training

From there I then went to the other end of the spectrum to start my training. It was the time of year again for our annual girls weekend get together. A social group of 20+ girls that have been meeting for over 10 years for a fun weekend of eating, laughing and some biking.

Tracy (far right) and the not-at-all monstrous regiment

It’s always so nice to catch up with people I haven’t seen for 12 months and also great to just get out and ride for some fun, with no expectation, pressure or purpose. We just blast around the trails and scare any poor guys that come across our path. The bad taste dress I don’t think helps our intimidating nature either, but its just a fun weekend where we are all brought together by the one common theme, having fun on our bikes.

That was the perfect set up for my winter’s training and I enjoyed getting back into some structure. I also wanted to be able to use the winter months to work on some other aspects of my fitness and signed up for an indoor climbing course to bring some regular climbing into my training. It’s great for upper body strength and mobility and also something different and enjoyable to do during the dark winter months.

I also joined a couple of Pilates classes to really work on my flexibility and core strength. It’s amazing as cyclists how tight you get in certain areas always using your muscles in the same direction, so hopefully a winter of Pilates will help even me out a little.

The Olympians

With my plans to focus on enduro entirely next year with hopefully a few cross-country races along the way too, I need to start getting some good rides and work on my fitness for next year. I started off my campaign in the hardest possible way by meeting up with both our Olympic cross-country racers.

Annie Last has had a much deserved break from her training after this season. She was only just getting back into her training so I thought it would be the perfect time to try and keep her in my sights on a ride. Well I did manage to hang on but I definitely worked a lot harder than I would have done on my own.

It was great to catch up with Annie, and we had great fun blasting around the trails at Cannock Chase. It’s great to see that our top female mountain biker really is a great bike handler. It will keep all those people who think cross-country riders can’t ride downhill very quiet if they ever went for a ride with her.

I also met up with Liam Killeen who suffered a nasty break to his ankle at the Olympic games in August and has been hard at work recovering and getting back on his bike. It was good to see him out on the bike and making really good progress, and once again I got a great work out on one of his easy rides.

I have been so lucky to get the opportunity to ride and travel with these guys during 2012 and it has really given me a good insight into what it takes to be successful at cross-country. The dedication and level of fitness they have is incredible.

I have no excuse now, to get my head down and get dragged around on some more rides with them over the winter and increase my fitness ready to take on the Enduro World Series in 2013.

There’s no need to stop riding just because it’s winter. Image by Yann Ropars via Flickr.

Mountain biking through the British winter isn’t easy, but you can either put the bike away in the shed and go into hibernation, or just tough it out. If you’re going with the latter option, good on you. There’s a few steps you can take to ensure riding through the winter is a little less pleasant.

Minimise working parts that wear out

A singlespeed has a lot less to go wrong. Image by Anthony DeLorenzo via Flickr

Get a winter bike with fewer valuable working parts to wear out. A rigid singlespeed bike is the perfect low-maintenance companion for piling on the winter miles, with no gears to wear out and high-tech suspension to go wrong.

Regular serving and maintenance

Get the mud off as soon as possible after a ride, and use a low-pressure hose if possible. Image by Tom Jenkins via Flickr.

Whichever bike you ride in the winter, all that gloop, mud and sand is going to accelerate the wear on vital parts of the bike. Make sure to thoroughly wash your bike after every ride (avoid the jet wash if you can, your bearings will thank you) and lube moving parts well. Pay close attention to the condition of the brake pads, gear cables, chain and sprockets to identify worn components before they cause you trouble out on the trail.

Go night riding

Good lights massively extend your riding options. Image by Darren Smith via Flickr

It’s the most fun thing in the world and is really good for enhancing your riding skills because you have a lot less time to react to stuff on the trail. And let’s face it, if you only ride when it’s daylight you’re not going to get much riding in. Good lights aren’t cheap (though lights that simply pump out lots of lumens but lack bells and whistles are now amazing value) but they’re cheaper than new wheels or some other upgrades you could buy for your bike.

Switch to winter tyres.

Tailor your tyres to your local trail conditions. If it’s like this, you need narrow mud tyres. Image by Jason Rogers via Flickr.

We don’t necessarily mean mud tyres here, but depending on the type of trails near you and how much rainfall we have this winter, specific mud tyres could be the best investment you ever make. The best way to find a good tyre for your local trails is to ask local riders and shops. Whatever tyres you run, it’s worth experimenting with the tyre pressure. Try running them a little lower to get some extra traction.

Keep yourself warm and dry

The right clothing makes the difference between having fun and being miserable. Image by Jordan via Flickr

There’s no quicker route to misery than losing the feeling in your extremities so get yourself some bike-specific warm winter clothing. You don’t need to spend a fortune either as there’s some very good value for money clothing that will cut it just fine. The basics of a good winter outfit are a long sleeve base layer, a decent jacket, three-quarter-length pants shorts or tights (to cover your knees up), gloves and a helmet liner or head band to protect your head and ears.
Insulated, waterproof winter boots are a luxury you won’t regret; overshoes run them a close second. Wear the thickest merino socks that will fit easily inside your shoes, but don’t pile the layers in there. Too thick or too many socks will cut off the circulation to your toes and make things worse.

Waterproof overshorts are the bomb.

We discovered this a few years ago and they transformed our riding. You should discover them too.

Get your mates out

Get your mates out so you’ve got company, banter and back-up. Image by Yann Ropars via Flickr.

Riding on your own when it’s cold and wet can be a soul destroying experience, so rope your mates into a regular ride and stick to it. Whether it’s every Sunday morning at the café or a Thursday night evening ride, having a regular ride in the diary is great for your motivation and gives you something to look forward to. If something goes qwrong, there’s safety in numbers benefit, and it’s just a lot more fun to race your mates through the puddles.

Set goals and aims

It can help to have some purpose to your riding sometimes, whether it’s just being fitter for the following spring, or targeting an event like Mountain Mayhem or Megavalanche. Having a goal in mind will help you make the transition from the warm and comfortable sofa to the trail.

Carry all the tools and spares you’ll need to fix your bike

The last thing you want is a long walk home if you have a mechanical on a very wet or very cold ride. So ensure you can fix your bike in any of the likely eventualities We’re talking a chain tool and quick link, zip ties, spare tube, a good pump, patches and glue just in case, some money for a cab home and a charged mobile phone. Just in case.

Mudguards

Even a simple set of mudguards like good old Crud Catchers will help keep the flith under control. Image by Wooly Matt via Flickr.

Yes, yes we know a lot of you don’t like mudguards. But the truth is that front and rear mudguards can keep so much of the mud and spray off you that you’ll avoid getting quite as wet through as you would without them.

What tyres for deepest mud? Image: Jason Rogers via Flickr

Tyres make a huge difference to how a bike rides. At this time of year, when the trails are permanently covered in a thick layer of gloop, tyre choice becomes even more crucial. To help out, here’s our pick of a baker’s dozen of the best tyres for mud.

As the wet weather takes a firm grip of the country, now is the time to remove those fast summer tyres, pack them away in the back of the shed for the winter months and invest in a set of new winter-specific treads.

Fortunately, there’s plenty of choice with nearly every manufacturer offering at least one tyre designed for use in the mud. What we’re looking at here are tyres designed specially to excel in the most extreme of conditions, with the sole purpose of finding traction where regular tyres will struggle and fail.

Mud tyres typically have tall pointy spikes that push through the top soft layer of mud to find something harder beneath to bite into. Lots of space between the blocks ensures they clear easily and don’t clag up, turning your previously knobbly tyre into a slick.

They style of the knobs, their shape, size, layout and spacing on the tyre’s carcass varies from brand to brand. Not all mud tyres are created equal, but they are pretty similar.

The nature of your local trails has an influence on the type of tyre you choose. Wet, loose, sloppy conditions might suit a slightly wider tyre run at a lower pressure, while claggyclay trails will suit a narrower pointer tyre run at a higher pressure.

Most tyres are offered in 26in and 29in sizes so whatever side of the fence you sit on, you’re well catered for. And if you’re riding 650b, your choices are limited, you trend-setter, you. The only one we know of is the Pacenti Cycles Quasi-Moto 650B. There’s rumours of Michelin 650b mud tyres, and we’ve heard other tyre brands are quickly developing new moulds.

Schwalbe Dirty Dan

Shwalbe Dirty Dan is a classic deep-block mud tyre

The Dirty Dan has two weapons in its armoury to help it deal with the mud: tall blocks and a soft, tacky compound. Those angular knobs chew through the mud and the soft compound sticks to rocks and roots giving good grip. Generous spacing between the blocks ensures good clearance when it gets claggy. The only downside is the high 920g weight.

More information: Schwalbe Dirty Dan

Maxxis Beaver 2.0 x 29 £35.99

Maxxis Beaver. Titter ye not.

The Maxxis Beaver uses a tread pattern with well-spaced square knobs that has made it a hit with 29er riders seeking a good winter tyre. It’s one of the best 29er mud tyres out there at the moment, and their weight of around 470g each keeps the rolling weight to a minimum. A dual compound rubber improves grip and helps them deal with changeable terrain and conditions. Originally designed for 29ers, it’s no available in 26in size too.

More information: Maxxis Beaver

Bontrager XR-Mud £32.99

Bontrager XR Mud

Available for both 26in and 29in wheels (as the 29-Mud TLR for £36.99), with the former coming in either 1.8in or 2in widths, the Mud uses a classic and simple square shaped knob tread pattern. Generous spacing between the knobs encourages mud to shed easily, while the central section gives reasonable rolling performance with little drag.

Bontrager use a proprietary tread compound that’s mud-specific, so it’s a little softer than usual. Downhill World Cup racers are fans of customising their mud tyres with a sharp knife, and Bontrager even go as far as saying “trimmable knobs for custom performance” so there’s scope for personalizing the tread pattern for your particular style of riding or terrain.

More information: Bontrager XR-Mud

Geax Gato 29 x 2.3 £30.99

Geax Gato 29er

The Gato has been updated this year with a new 29er carcass and huge 2.3in width – the choice of wide 29er tyres is currently limited and this is one of the few. It’s described as being suitable for wet and loose conditions and has tall wide siped knobs with a paddle orientation along the central section. They’re well spaced out to do that tricky job of finding grip and not clogging all at the same time. A folding bead gives an all-up weight of 690g. A heavier (850g) non-folding version costs £18.99.

More information: Geax Gato 29 x 2.3

Michelin Country Mud £13.99

Michelin Country Mud: a grippy mud bargain, but quite surface-specific

Michelin simplified its range last year and the Country Mud is its sole mud-specific tyre. It’s more of an all-rounder tyre than many of the others here, with wide paddle central knobs surrounded by smaller angled blocks.

It’s a 2in width tyre and weighs a reasonable 590g for this wire bead tyre, which does keep the price down if the weight is a little higher than Kevlar beaded tyres.

More information: Michelin Country Mud

Specialized Storm Control 2Bliss Ready £29.99

Specialized Storm Control

Specialized’s offering uses a soft rubber compound do that it doesn’t come unstuck on wet roots and rocks, terrain on which mud tyres can traditionally prove hazardous unless treated with absolute caution.

The square knobs are well spaced to ensure mud clears quickly with a tighter packed outer edge knob pattern. The centre compound is 65a rubber while the shoulder section uses 55a compound for better corning grip. Tubeless ready, the tyre can be used with or without an inner tube.

More information: Specialized Storm Control 2Bliss Ready

Continental Mud King 1.8 £48.95

King of Mud, they say.

The Mud King has a lot going for it. It was developed by the Athertons, so it’s available in a 2.3in 1100g downhill version or a lighter 570g 1.8in option. It’s the latter we’re more interested in, but both share the same spiky tread pattern.

The 1.8in ProTection version uses Continental’s Black Chilli tread compound, which helps it stick to slippery obstacles like a limpet. The layout of the angular knobs give good traction in all conditions. The shoulder blocks are siped to allow them to flex a little and find more traction when cornering over slippery rocks and roots.

More information: Continental Mud King

Geax Gato Mud £30.99

Geax Gato Mud

Geax’s Gato Mud uses a tread pattern that features L-shaped blocks interspersed with rectangular blocks across the tyre, producing a design that’s distinct from all the other mud tyres available. Reinforcements at the base of the central ridge reduce rolling resistance while similar reinforcements on the side knobs ensure stiffness when cornering.

It’s one of the narrowest here too at just 1.7in, so it’s best served for very extreme conditions or racing when absolute grip is right at the top of the list. The TNT casing means it can be used tubeless or with tubes, and weighs 490g.

More information: Geax Gato Mud

Panaracer TrailRaker £24.99-£34.99

Panaracer TrailRaker

It’s been around for a while but Panaracer’s TrailRaker is a solid performer when the conditions of your favourite trails dictate a change to an aggressive mud tyre.

Tall knobs dig through mud giving high levels of grip even in the wettest trail conditions. Angled shoulder knobs give good drive traction and cornering grip. A UST version is available, and in 1.95in or 2.1in widths.

More information: Panaracer TrailRaker

Maxxis Medusa £29.99

Maxxis Medusa

Using a very open profile tread pattern with sparsely placed knobs, the Medusa is a tyre for the mankiest of conditions when clogging is a real possibility. For trails formed of clay soil, the Medusa’s are a good option.

It’s available in loads of versions. The 2.1in Lust is our pick, weighing 675g. A lighter (640g) 1.8in Lust tyre is also available. We’d consider pairing the wider tyre on the front with a narrower rear for the best performance.

More information: Maxxis Medusa

Schwalbe Black Shark £33.94

Schwalbe Black Shark

It’s been around for a long time, and the Black Shark continues to prove it’s one of the best mud tyres. An aggressive tread pattern with extremely tall spiked knobs ensures that it finds traction in even the gloopiest and stickiest conditions.

It can be picked up in 2.1in or 2.25in widths and both feature Schwalbe’s own Puncture Protection design.

More information: Schwalbe Black Shark

Onza Greina £36.99

Onza Greina

Onza is a name from the past. The original Californian company made some lusted-over tyres like Porcupine and the mythical Octopus, but folded back in the 90s when the founders fell out. But now the name is back, and the Swiss owners are turning out some good tyre designs once more.

The Greina is pinned as a freeride/downhill tyre but at 2.25in we feel its still worthy for inclusion for those who want a bit more meat on their wheels. It uses an aggressive block tread pattern, with four rows of blocks and the sizes varying across the carcass. The outer knobs are siped for flexibility when banked over. At 670g, the 120tpi folding version is a decent weight for a tyre this meaty.

More information: Onza Greina

WTB VelociRaptor front and rear specific mud tyres £17.99

WTB Velociraptors

WTB’s VelociRaptors are a legendary name from the early days of mountain biking, and this front and rear pairing are the only direction-specific tyres in this list.

That’s a good thing. The rear tyre features a generous paddle design for hoofing you up the slippery trails, while the fronts forward pointing long knobs can focus on steering duties.

Available in 2.1in with a DNA rubber compound, it’s a proprietary 60a durometer rubber, gives good grip on loose trails. Weight is between 700g and 760g.

More information: WTB VelociRaptor

In the UK a decent bike waterproof isn’t a seasonal accessory, it’s an all-year-round essential. The weather’s unpredictable enough in lowland areas – get up into the hills and literally anything could happen. And probably will. Here’re some pointers to help you choose wisely…

Fabric

Waterproof is easy. All sorts of things are waterproof – tarpaulins, rubble sacks. But if the thing inside the waterproof gives off moisture as well then you’ve got a problem. A sheet of polythene is waterproof in both directions. Wrap it round something like, say, a hard-working cyclist and chances are they’ll drown in their own sweat. Even if they don’t, if they stop working hard because they’ve got to the top of the hill they’ll cool down very quickly thanks to having a layer of condensation right next to them.

The challenge for a good waterproof garment is to stop rainwater coming in but letting moisture from inside get out. As you’d imagine, that’s pretty tricky. Fortunately it’s not impossible. The reason that it can be done is because the stuff you’re trying to keep out is actual water droplets, while the stuff you’re trying to let out is moist air – it’s just got lots of water molecules in it. If you switch on a shower in a cold bathroom you’ll get lots of steam and condensation as the hot, moist air hits cold surfaces like mirrors and tiles. Switch it on in a hot room and you won’t – it just stays as hot, moist air. So the usual waterproof fabric trick is to somehow engineer a fabric with lots of tiny holes in it that are big enough to let molecules of water through but not big enough for raindrops.

How they manage this depends on the fabric. Gore-Tex and its imitators use a synthetic membrane bonded to a chemically-waterproofed fabric. The waterproofing on the outside is known as the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) layer, and it’s this that causes water to bead up and roll off. Without it rain soaks in to the fabric and clogs the membrane so it won’t breathe as effectively. On heavy-duty jackets the membrane will be between two layers of fabric to protect it (known as three-ply construction). A common weight and cost reduction strategy is to leave the second layer off (two-ply construction).

Gore-Tex itself has been refined and improved over the years, with a number of variants offering improved softness, durability, breathability, light weight or combinations thereof. At the same time several manufacturers have developed their own fabrics working along similar lines. These are often highly effective and generally cheaper than the original Gore-Tex, but won’t match the performance of Gore’s high-end fabrics like XCR.

Other do away with the membrane altogether and rely on engineering the actual weave of the fabric to do the same job. This can make for very light, very breathable jackets but it’s an expensive solution.

Jackets are one of those things where the old maxim “you get what you pay for” still generally applies. With few exceptions, the more expensive a jacket is the more breathable it will be…

Construction

When it comes to waterproofing and durability, the fewer seams the better. Joins between fabric panels represent a weak spot both in terms of water ingress and garment strength. The problem is that it’s harder to make a well-fitting jacket the fewer panels you use, so a compromise has to be struck. Stretch fabrics like that used by Karrimor allow them to get away with fewer seams without compromising fit and freedom of movement, but the fabric’s expensive. Seams should always be taped internally to stop water getting in through what is, after all, a row of holes.

Heavy-duty jackets will nearly always have some form of liner, often a simple mesh affair. This serves two purposes. First it protects the actual waterproof fabric from abrasion from the inside – this is less of an issue if a three-ply fabric is used but such fabrics are heavier and more expensive. Secondly a liner puts something else between you and the inside of the main fabric. If you manage to exceed the ability of the fabric to transport moisture out to the atmosphere you’ll get a build-up of condensation inside. If there’s a liner there, though, you might not even notice. Jackets made with highly-breathable fabrics often do without.

With the widespread use of packs and the popularity of riding in trees (or amongst trees for the pedants), it’s worth considering jackets with some added reinforcement. A lot of high-tech waterproof fabrics aren’t all that resistant to abrasion or tearing, so beefed-up areas on the shoulders, tail and sleeves are popular. Whether they’re necessary depends on your riding style and preferred trails. If you tend to snag your existing clothing get something sturdy…

Fit

Fit’s always a tricky one for cycling-specific waterproofs. Designers of walking jackets have it relatively easy – the customer is generally standing up straight. Jackets suitable for climbing are a trickier proposition, what with strange posture and harnesses to allow for. But cycling is a nightmare. The rider could be down on the drops of a road bike, all stretched out, or perched upright on a freeridey MTB. And if the latter it’s only a matter of time before he or she decides to drop down a steep bit and stretches their arms out to get some weight back.

There are a few common strategies to deal with all this variation, though. Most bike-specific waterproofs have a short front and a long back to allow for the common leaning-forward position. More MTBish jackets are fairly conservative here, but roadie jackets are often very short at the front. Try them out in your usual riding position. Too long at the front and you’ll get uncomfortable bunching. Too short and it’ll all be a bit draughty.

Similarly, if you lean forward more then you may benefit from a longer back, but sometimes you can have too much material back there and keep getting it snagged on the saddle as you shift your weight forward on climbs. If you run mudguards of any description then you may not need as much of a dropped tail.

Some jackets have a stowable drop tail which can make the garment somewhat more versatile. Different manufacturers have different ideas on all of this, so try a few out sat on a bike and see which ones suit you best. The same goes for sleeve length. Generally bike waterproofs have over-length sleeves to allow for your arms being extended most of the time, but depending on the length of your own arms you might find that they’ve under or over-done it.

Another area where manufacturers differ is on simple sizing. Some will size a jacket as, say, a Medium but will allow for a base layer and a couple of fleeces so it might feel large and flap about in the breeze. Conversely they might make no allowance and you might end up with something too snug. There’s really no other option than going in to a well-stocked shop and trying a few on. Take your usual base and mid layers and go for a fit that’s not too flappy with just a base layer but allows room for the mid layer.

Ventilation

One of the problems with British weather is that it’s quite often wet but relatively warm. Breathable fabrics rely on a substantial temperature gradient between the inside and the outside to transport moisture outwards, but if it’s not actually all that cold outside the jacket then there’s often just not enough thermodynamic wotsittage going on to make them work effectively.

For that reason most jackets also feature some form of mechanical ventilation. In fact, every jacket we can think of has at least a front zip. Obviously that’s there primarily so that you can get the thing on and off but if you’re getting a bit warm then pulling the zip down helps a lot. Velcro-fastening cuffs are also commonplace, letting you snug them up to prevent water and wind ingress if needed but also giving you the opportunity to run them a little looser for a bit of a cooling breeze up the sleeves. You can even push the sleeves up if it starts getting really warm.

Jackets made of the more breathable fabrics sometimes leave it at that – zips cost money, after all, and more breathable fabrics are more expensive so leaving off as many things as possible can make the difference between an vaguely affordable jacket and a preposterously expensive one.

Underarm “pit zips” are a common venting strategy on jackets, though, allowing direct airflow to potentially sweaty bits. If they’re there they need to be long, ideally with a double zip so they’ll open or close in either direction. Some jackets have a mesh panel inside the zip, others just hang open – which you prefer is really personal preference, although mesh has an irritating habit of getting tangled up in the zips.

Features

Cycling waterproofs range from super-simple, ultralight smocks to full-featured jackets. What you choose depends a little on what sort of conditions you’re likely to encounter. If you’re looking for a jacket primarily to carry just in case then you’ll want something lighter with fewer toys. If you’re a wet-weather riding fanatic and after a jacket to actually go out in crappy weather in regularly you’ll probably be after something a bit meatier.

We’ve already mentioned Velcro cuffs and zips, pretty much universal features. Pit zips are common but not universal. Nearly every jacket has at least one pocket, but pockets are one of those areas where user opinion is strongly divided. Some people like lots of pockets, others prefer to have everything in a pack and as few pockets as possible. We’re somewhere in between – we find a simple chest pocket useful (although only if it’s big enough for a map) but don’t get on with low-down front pockets and always find our packs get in the way of rear pockets. A rear pocket with a side entry is occasionally handy, though.

Hoods are another controversial fitment. Some would argue that what with helmets and hats they’re a bit unnecessary, but in a real downpour you’re likely to change your mind. There’re a couple of approaches to hoods. Either they’re big enough to go over a helmet or they’re snug and designed to go under one. Both look odd but the under-helmet approach has the benefit of better visibility, not blowing around in the breeze, being easier to make and using less material so it packs away more effectively. Some hoods stow away, some are removable and a lot of jackets don’t have one at all. Your choice.

Drawcords at the bottom of the jacket and the collar let you close up any draughty gaps, but they need to be easy to use. We like the one-handed toggle-lock style ones. Some jackets save money by only having a cord pull on one side, worth watching out for if you’re a left-hander.

Colours present something of a dilemma. From the point of view of visibility, whether you want to be seen by motorists or rescue helicopters, bright colours are best. But with “visual impact” often cited by the anti-MTB brigade and, lets be honest here, the vagaries of fashion, a lot of jackets go for more earthy, subdued tones or indeed black. You’ll nearly always find some reflective piping, trim or logos on jackets to brighten things up in the dark, but if your primary use of a jacket is commuting we’d go for something bright. The subdued look is fine in the woods (no-one’ll see you anyway) but we’d rather take our chances with the fashion police than with articulated trucks…

Care & feeding

What with most waterproofs being (a) made of high-tech synthetic fabrics and (b) expensive, it’s worth taking care of them. The problem with most of the fabrics in common use is that they rely on the DWR (durable water repellent) treatment on the outer surface to make water bead up and roll off rather than soak in. It works a treat, but the detergents in your household washing powder tend to wreck it. Additionally several manufacturers don’t recommend machine washing or demand a low-temperature wash. This is all bad news if you like to just chuck everything in the machine and press the button.

It’s entirely possible to get away without washing jackets for quite long periods of time. If you put it on because it was raining then the rain probably kept it fairly clean. If you run Crud Catchers and Race Guards then not too much splatty mud will have found its way on to your jacket. Even if you don’t, there’s often just a bit of gunge down the back that you can just rinse off.

But there comes a time when you have to wash the thing, usually just before you run out of friends to ride with, but more importantly because if it gets too dirty the magic breathable fabric stops working. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which will usually forbid the use of detergent – there are various specialist cleaning products out there but good old-fashioned soap flakes work just fine. Some manufacturers recommend a cool, brief tumble dry or iron to breathe new life into the DWR – again, follow the instructions.

If you do manage to kill the DWR then a trip to your local outdoor shop should get you a wash-in or spray-on retreating solution to get things back to full beading potency.

It’s cold out there. Seeing a layer of frost or snow on the cars outside can be enough to put you off riding, but there are a few tips for dealing with the snow, rain, mud and worst the British winter can dish out.

Winter riding technique

Playing with tyre pressure makes a big difference. Dropping the psi means the tyre will mould itself to uneven surfaces, and spread out for a bigger tread “footprint” and more grip. The lower you drop the pressure the more soft condition grip you’ll get, but again you’ll need to be wary on the hard stuff.

Low pressure tyres will squash against the rim easily if you hit rocks, so you’ll be more prone to pinch punctures unless you slow down. Floppy tyres can also squirm badly under cornering – particularly with lightweight thin sidewall tyres – so let pressures down gradually till you find a comfortable compromise level.

More on winter riding technique here

Don’t let bad weather deter you

With the right clothing, winter riding doesn’t need to be a miserable experience. But with poor clothing and bad decisions, riding in the wind, rain and mud can be horrible, just horrible; water creeps in through the seams, the wind rips through the delicate layers and your core temperature can plummet.

Read the full blog here

It’s all about the layers

This being Britain the temperature can swing wildly from sub zero to really quite mild, and the rain can be frequent, a brief cloudburst or a prolonged downpour. These changeable conditions make the clothing decision before a ride a tricky thing, getting it right is a matter of trial and error.

Learn how to get the layers right here

Rich Rothwell shares some advice

I actually quite enjoy winter. Firstly, you know what you’re going to get. It’s not like our tantalising ‘summers’ which never seem to quite materialise, or do so in short frustrating gasps. I love the slightly gothic atmosphere of winter and, once out there probably enjoy the scenery more than the summer.

View the full article from Rich.

Rob Dean on riding year round

I like riding all year round. In fact I need to ride all year round as my journey to work takes me and my bike over the South Downs, every morning, so riding all year round is essential.

See Rob’s tips in full here.

Got any of your own top tips you want to share? Let’s hear them in the comments box below please…