Whyte 729 100mm XC hardtail 29er.

But there’s more to the Whyte 729er than an easy ride because along with the latest generation of 29inch bikes, and I know that I’m not alone in thinking this, but it’s not quite as easy to identify the difference between a 29er from a 26inch bike, which is good – and it’s a proportional thing. Now, frame and forks, combined with the right geometry come together for a more aesthetic look. Gone are the awkward looking steerer tube and stem combinations. And let’s face it, looks are important, and the Whyte 729 looks as good on paper, as it does in the flesh.

But it’s not a case of form over function here; the Whyte 729 is a bike handling dream: lightweight and steady underfoot the 729 simply flows through the trails and will keep any trail hungry novice, or experienced rider grinning from ear to ear.

‘Progressive geometry’ is how Whyte describe their design ethos with the 729 and it is part of their X-29 performance hardtail series. Whyte have always done things their way, as a bike company they have a history of innovation, they are stylishly British, and they are not afraid to fly the flag for Britain – albeit, a green version.

Following on from this ethos Whyte have based the design of the 729 around their carbon 29C hardtail frame, which although the 729 doesn’t mimic the 29C geometry to the full, the formula works extremely well. Take a proven XC race bike, soften the angles a little, throw in a little more wheelbase stability and away you go – the perfect hardtail trail setup.

Whyte use the same frame on all there alloy X-29 frames for 2013 and the triple butted 6061 hydro-formed frame is clearly a highly effective heart of the 729er. Extra clearance for mud-shedding, Crud Catcher ready bolts, and a forward facing seat slot are all trademark features for Whyte and denote their commitment to British riding conditions.

Colin’s test bike. Aesthetically pleasing, confidence inspiring to ride and a bargain at £1,499.99

Graphics on the 729 are neatly understated, stylish and proved to be durable. Even after riding the rain soaked abrasive sandy trails of the Isle Purbeck Jurassic coast, a gentle wash down revealed unscathed decals and resilient paintwork – much to my relief.

The all-Whyte finishing kit of saddle, stem, bars, lock-on grips, and seat post are a nice touch and in keeping with the overall look of the bike. The lime green decals and lettering are easy on the eye and don’t detract from the overall appeal of the bike either.

The padding and support on the saddle was firm and friendly (so to speak) even after a good soaking day after day, although the saddle looked a little duller after a permanent layer of abrasive wet sand between saddle and rider had set in each day; but then I think any saddle would have. No problems either from the mix of SRAM X9 and X7 shifters, chainset, chain, and derailleurs, which again, when sourced from the same manufacturer, makes a bike seem more complete, rather than looking like a basket of fruit. The 2 x 10 setup shifted well throughout the course of my loan, aided of course by lashings of chain lube demanded from the continual effects of it persisting down in biblical proportions for days on-end.

Whyte’s own parts are on the spec list, but that isn’t a bad thing.

Avid Elixir 5 Matchmaker’s take care of the braking department. A 160mm rotor brings up the rear with a 170mm up-front. The ergonomics of the levers are fine with plenty of reach adjustment for my smallish hands. Ok, there was a little squealing to be heard in the rain, but I’m not sure if that was me or the brakes as I pushed myself and the 729 even harder on the descents.

I loved it. The more I rode the 729 the more I realised what Whyte are about – they put a great deal of thought into their design work and after all, aesthetics aside, isn’t it the ride that counts? In a straight line I felt the bike could almost ride itself, and the front end came up easily with a slight tug on the bars and a push with the pedals; even with the 70mm stem fitted upside down, the effect was the same, just the slightly racier position pushing my weight forward; but that only helped the front wheel grip to aid the rock-steady steering even further.

The long, rocky descent of Godlingston Hill (a perennial Purbeck favourite) can be sketchy at the best of times, but in the wet it can be a little scary at speed if you take your eye off the line. The 729er paid no attention to my worries and carried me down with ease. The combination of big wheels, Maxxis Icon 2.2in tyres paired with the 729’s long wheelbase, simply ignored the smaller rocks and steps to let me carry the speed over the bigger stuff without hesitation.

The frame is good looking and well balanced making the bike fast and fun to ride.

At the bottom, I simply turned around and rode the bike back to the gate to start again – I’d never been inclined to do that before; especially in the rain. The climb back up over the loose rocks was as sure-footed as the descent, nothing skittish, and even the tall front end (a 29er trait) behaved well. I must make a point here that the stem was in its racier, inverted position for this little exercise; reassuring to know that I had this much control on the descent, and nicely positioned with a weight bias to the front on the climb.

The 100mm RockShox REBA RLs performed faultlessly during the test, and were nicely bedded in by the time I’d got my hands on the bike. At an SRP of £1,499 the 729 is a bargain, made even better with the inclusion of the REBAs. Whyte are getting the spec’ right at the areas that matter most – frame, forks, and their own XC 209 double sealed wheelset which continued to run smoothly and tracked incredibly well throughout. The oversized QR on the front wheel helped keep flex to a minimum here and, as previously mentioned, front wheel tracking and steering was spot on. The sum of all the main parts of the 729er make this bike so easy to get on with.

The 729er is low-maintenance in the sense of getting on with, and it’s certainly fun to be with – even when pushed. Easy on the eye and reliable, the Whyte 729 makes for an altogether easy relationship and incredible value for money. A marriage made in heaven, maybe?!

Price: £1,499.99
More information on spec and geometry: Whyte 729
Distributed by: ATB Sales 01424 753566

What Whyte say about the 729 100mm XC bike:

We’ve brought our progressive geometry ideas to these new for 2013 XC 29” hardtails. Aesthetically closely mirroring the design of the Carbon 29C frames,  the development of the new X-29 frame has resulted in a more confidence inspiring 29er geometry for a performance hardtail. Simply put it means a faster and a more fun ride experience.

The X-29 geometry is based on the ground breaking 29-C frame. The unique Whyte combination of XC speed, Trail bike handling and all-day comfort bring some thing very special to the 29er movement.

These frames bristle with UK design features, such as extra mud clearance for all-weather usability, forward facing seat slot to keep rear wheel spray out of the frame, continuous outers for improved cable life and crud-catcher mounts on the downtube to keep the grit out of your teeth.

The 2013 Camelbak HAWG NV is tough and well-organised.

Soon to hit UK bike stores is the 2013 version of Camelbak’s popular Hawg NV drinking system and the R and D boys at Camelbak haven’t disappointed us. The excellent build quality we’ve come to expect from Camelbak is clearly present here. With its combination of durability, comfort, and devilish attention to detail, the Hawg NV will be the backpack of choice for any mountain bike guide or multi-day rider.

NV refers to the articulated support system that keeps the pack off your back, and allows a constant flow of air for ventilation. It works really well. The four segments or pods that make up the system felt firm at first, especially at the lumber region, but with a further tug on the chest straps, the snug fit evenly distributed the load along the spine of the bag; this makes for an extremely comfortable and secure fit.

Secure is a word I don’t use lightly in the context of carrying a heavy load. When carrying a full load on your back all day, the fit of the bag is extremely important, especially when the terrain gets bumpy. You need a backpack that fits correctly and offers bags of confidence and comfort, and won’t move around. The HAWG is secure on your back and is held there comfortably without feeling restricted at either the chest or waistband straps.

The three-litre lightweight reservoir features all the latest Camelbak updates: the quarter turn closure works a treat by lining up the finger handles horizontally, and then a flick of the wrist to the 12 o’clock position secures it with a resounding clunk.

You can unclip the tube at the reservoir base for cleaning. The fitting here is leak free so far, and slots together with another resounding click, a bit like a garden hose.

But what’s really neat is the handle drop slot that cunningly holds the reservoir securely in place no matter how much or little water you’re carrying. There’s nothing fancy here, just a simple slot that works really well at holding the base of the plastic closure into place, and no half-empty bladders crumpled up in the bottom of your HAWG.

The external pocket is big enough for a helmet or frequently-used gear like a jacket and spares.

The HAWG NV has an all-up carrying load of 17 litres. This is split between a14-litre main compartment, and three litres of bladder space. The four way compression straps glide neatly into place to allow for variations in carrying capacity. The main compartment is deep and wide enough to carry a full day’s wet weather load of clothing, food and spares, and this is neatly augmented by the overflow bay which sits on the back of the main compartment.

More often than not, I found myself stuffing regularly used gear, like food, a windproof or waterproof top, into the overflow bay and slipped on the handy, day-glow yellow rain cover to keep everything dry and clean, although out of habit I still double bag clothing for added protection first.

I also used the rain cover if the trails were wet anyway. It keeps the HAWG dry and clean, which is especially good if you have to unzip the bag for something. Anything that prevents unwelcome crud getting into the main compartment is good.

The helmet clips on each side of the bag are another straightforward design feature and are simple yet effective. I must admit though, I tend to carry my helmet in the overflow pouch for added protection when transporting my gear around. There’s a handy rear light strap built into the reflective logo and markings on the back; there’s a rear light strap on the rain cover too.

One of the features of the HAWG NV that I took to instantly and went “yep, that makes sense” is the ever so simple D-fit rings that hold the top end of the chest straps in place. The chunky and silky smooth D-rings allow the straps to fall into a natural alignment with your shoulders without any fuss or adjustment. It works so well you don’t even notice it – like a problem solved before the issue arises.

Other finely tuned details include the understated reflective strips on the chest straps; a chunky carrying handle; and a lined media pocket that’s ever so soft to the touch. The media pocket comfortably holds my (empty of cash) wallet and stupidly outsized smart phone, and I can safely squeeze my glasses in there too. Our sample HAWG NV weighed in at 0.97kg, which is not bad for a pack this big.

Verdict

The 2013 Hawg NV is packed with plenty of well thought-out features and has a ruggedness that belies its slim looks. There’s nothing about the Hawg NV that looks or feels like an afterthought or change-for-change sakes, every detail about it makes sense and has an ergonomic, tactile feel with a functional reason for being there.

It’s weird, but after a few weeks of soggy trail riding with the new Hawg NV clinging limpet-like to my back, I still feel that I’ve experienced a dream where I had taken my original, well-worn Hawg back to the design office at Camelbak Towers to explain what I wanted from an updated, fully expedition-capable backpack: “I need compartments like this, I want padding like that, the straps should move like this, but fit like that …”. Well someone got inside my head, because the bagmen at Camelbak have came up with the almost flawless 2013 Hawg NV.

Weight: 970g
Price: £119.99
More information: Camelbak
UK supplier: Zyro

Altura Attack waterproof shorts – excellent soggy bottom preventer.

The devil – or perhaps the benevolent deity – is in the detail here. Altura have spent their time well in the research and development with these shorts. The React fabric is very waterproof and breathable. As well as being extremely light and comfortable, the Attack Baggy Shorts have some neat little touches that make all the difference.

There are unobtrusive elasticated Velcro adjusters at the rear which pull the waist in easily if required, and ensure a snug fit.

Effective waterproof zips keep the contents of your pockets dry.

The two water resistant zippers provide excellent protection for the contents of your pockets. They kept out torrential rain on recent coastal ride and they are deep enough to hold your cash and keep your hands warm off the bike. And the cash was still dry.

We have worn the Attack Baggies over Lycra cycling shorts and found that their lightness belies the protection they provide. Both the seat and inside leg areas are well reinforced and are wearing extraordinarily well considering the crud that’s determined to block the pores in the membrane. Copious amounts of post ride hosing and washing (following the manufacturer’s instructions of course) seems unable to stop the Attack Baggies from doing an excellent job.

The rear waistband adjuster makes pulling the Altura Attack shorts in a cinch.

I wore a size medium on my 32inch waist but sizes range from XS through to XXL.

Verdict

The Attack Waterproof shorts’ price is reasonable for the excellent build quality and highly durability. Light and airy enough for wet summer rides, the Attack Shorts offer up plenty of soggy bottom protection from the winter crud. An extremely comfortable and effective investment for year round protection.

Pro

Light
Durable
Comfortable
Very waterproof

Con

Price: £59.99
More information: Altura Attack Waterproof Baggy Shorts

attack front DSC_0241 DSC_0221 DSC_0219 DSC_0218 attack-front attack

Altura Attack waterproof shorts official portrait.

What Altura says about the Attack Waterproof Baggy Shorts

Waterproof, durable and highly breathable, React™ 3 layer fabric
Breathable in excess of 20,000g/m2/24hr
Highly durable, reinforced crotch panel
Zipped hand pockets
Dark reflective trim
Compatible with Attack braces

With such a vast choice of tyres out there, it’s no wonder that so many questions start ‘What tyres for…’ In this guide, we’ll explain the features of modern tyres to help you choose the right rubber.

Choice, choice and more choice. Image by Cris Bloomfield via Flickr.

There’s a saying about gear and the weather: ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather – just the wrong choice of clothing’.

The same is true of tyres. We often fit the wrong ones. Most of us want to fit tyres that work on every surface, then we curse the bike, or tyres, when things go awry. We travel miles to get to a bike park in Wales or Scotland only to find that our super sticky mud tyres are pretty much useless on the rocky descents and climbs.

What do we do? Do we buy a set of tyres for each location (having learnt our expensive lesson) or do we go for the compromise? This can be a daunting task.

Whether you’re riding a 26in-wheeled bike or a 29er, or going tubeless, it’s the grip that matters. Our essential guide to cross country tyres is here to help you through the mire.

Tyres need working edges to grip. Working rounded bits don’t. Time to replace these. Image by Cris Bloomfield via Flickr.

Where do you ride?

Tyre selection is probably one of the hardest of choices to make when fitting out your bike and by and far the greatest influence on the quality of your ride and handling of the bike. The weather conditions here on our compact island constantly change with the seasons and more often than not – four seasons in one day.

Whether you live in the north, south, east or west, you just don’t have the luxury of simplicity with terrain and weather. Almost anywhere within the UK you might encounter mud, sand, rocks, roots, tarmac, and grass. Sometimes, that’ll be in a single ride, or in some cases just a few hundred metres. If you want to take the fit and forget route with your tyres, then compromise might ultimately be the name of the game.

Tyre construction: threads per inch (TPI)

As the name suggests TPI refers to the thread count in a tyre’s casing. A low TPI means the manufacturer has used thicker threads to weave the tyre casing, making it more durable, but stifer. High TPI indicates thinner threads, making the tyre lighter and more pliable.

Tyre construction: Siping

Sipes are the small incisions on, or in, a tyre tread, usually in the knobs. Siping a tyres creates more working edges, boosting traction on pretty much any surface. Shallow cut sipes stay firmer under heavy loads and hard braking.

By increasing the number of working edges, sipes and cut-outs increase grip. Image by gcfairch via Flickr.

Tyre construction: Terraced treads

Tyres that feature stepped edges on the tread offer a progressive feel as you turn into a corner. The idea here is that in the initial stages of a turn the tread is supple and conforms to the terrain, as more pressure is applied at the apex of the turn, the tread becomes stiffer to provide support.

Tyre profiles

There are two general types of tyre profile: rounded and square. Rounded profiles normally offer less rolling resistance so are better for going quickly, but they offer less grip as less of the tyre is in contact with the ground. Less grip is available while cornering too, as the tread patterns on the outside of the tyre normally the same as the centre sections.

A square profile normally supports a more aggressive tread pattern offering plenty of grip but with the disadvantage of higher rolling resistance, especially on smooth, hard packed surfaces. There’s usually plenty of cornering grip on offer as the more aggressive tread pattern bites into the terrain. The combination of speed and grip comes at a price, though.

Minimal treads roll quickly, but offer very little grip on loose or muddy surfaces. Image by Danny Clark via Fickr.

Tyre manufacturers have been working hard on improving the all-round performance of cross-country tyres. More and more tyres are appearing built of two, sometimes three different layers of tread compound. The mix of harder and softer compounds enables tyres to roll and corner better, giving you the best of both worlds for a wider range of riding conditions.

Grip, braking, inertia & rolling resistance

The wheels and tyres on your mountain bike are the components that have to be turned, so it’s only natural to want this to happen as easily as possible. But here’s the problem: we want maximum grip combined with a light wheel/tyre combination that’s easy to rotate, especially when the going gets tough.

You can get buckets of traction from mid-width tyres if the tread design is right.

We need grip to stay upright and to propel ourselves forwards when it’s slippery, and we need the tyre to grip in the opposite direction for maximum braking effect. Fitting those new disc brakes will amount to nothing if there’s nothing to bite into the ground.

The lighter the tyre, the lower its inertia and the easier it is to turn the wheel. Lightweight tyres tend to have thinner side walls to reduce this, which is great for weight saving but not so good for preventing pinch flats.

Rolling resistance is the force needed to actually push the tyre along the ground. Tyres with minimal tread blocks have low rolling resistance, so will be quicker over hard packed ground than a more aggressive tread pattern but usually don’t offer much grip on loose surfaces. This becomes a problem when you hit soft or muddy conditions where the tyre can’t dig in and provide grip. That’s not a disaster for a few metres, but you will soon get fed up with the lack of grip if your frequently ride though mud or soft, wet ground.

The ultimate in low rolling resistance is the slick road tyre, but they’re not much use off-road unless you are riding clean, dry rocks.

Tyre manufacturers have to trade off these four attributes as it’s impossible to make a tyre that is light, grippy in all situations and fast-rolling.

Mud shedding

A tyre with an open tread pattern, with large gaps between the blocks, will cut through the mud and normally clear it easier than a close block pattern.

Wide-spaced knobs on a Specialized Storm Control make for good grip in muddy conditions.

This is because the mud has little purchase as there are fewer blocks of rubber to get packed between, and the blocks tend to give a little (that squishy feeling) allowing the mud to fall out. Good mud tyres usually have blocks with sloping sides to help drop the dirt.

Cross-country race tyres

Racing is all about going as fast as possible and we spare no expense to do this. Race tyres generally fall into two categories: as little tread as possible or a full-on mud pattern. Why? Because a narrow tyre with smaller and tighter tread pattern for dry conditions offers much less rolling resistance.

A closely-spaced shallow tread block pattern rolls quickly, but needs ‘just right’ conditions.

Narrow (around 1.7in), aggressive mud tyres are found almost exclusively on the racing circuit but these are tyres that will cut right through the crud and still offer up acres of grip. Only thing is, narrow tyres don’t offer much cushioning. Remember, racing is all about going as fast as you can for a few hours. If you are racing over larger distance then you need to look at a bigger tyre for better cushioning.

Having said all that, if you ride in an area that makes you live in fear of clogging up your bike during the wet seasons (horrible wet chalk or clay, muddy going etc) then a narrow, mud-specific tyre will certainly help you cope.

Rider weight

Remember that lightweight tyres usually have thinner walls? Well, if you’re a big unit then you might want to look at something with stiffer side walls to reduce the chances of pinch flats. This is going to add rotational weight of course, but there’s the compromise again.

Cost

Less is more. Expect to pay a premium for lightweight folding tyres. If you are on a budget then look for tyres with cheaper wire beads that have the same tread as your preferred lightweight option. The difference is only a couple dozen grams, which might matter to a racer, but is not vital for general riding. [As pointed out in the comments below, the difference can be around 100g, so if weight matters to you, then folding tyres make sense. - Ed]

Setting up and looking after your tyres

Check to see whether your tyres are directional; or even if they are front or rear specific. Some tyres might have tread blocks with chamfered leading edges on the front tyre for less rolling resistance, with a square block pattern at the rear for grip.

Chamfered blocks, as on this Kenda Slant Six, are a sign of a directional tyre. Make sure you point it the right way.

There will be an arrow on the side walls indicating the direction of travel. The side walls should also be marked with the minimum and maximum tyre pressure. Inflate them to a pressure somewhere between the two unless you are certain you know what you’re doing.

Rider weight, ride conditions, and terrain will all play their part in how much air you put in your tyres. Too little pressure will make the tyre slow, and increase the chance of pinch flats. Too much pressure will reduce traction as there will be less tread in contact with the ground. Rolling resistance will be lower for sure, but the ride will be harsher. You’re less likely to get a pinch flat though.

Topping your tyre pressure up every couple of weeks (at least) is a good idea. Leaving your bike in a shed for 12 years, like this, isn’t. Image by Drew Saunders via Flickr.

It’s worth buying a floor pump with a good gauge or even a separate gauge so you can experiment with pressure. As little at 2 or 3 psi can make a difference to the ride and performance.

Conclusion

It’s worth putting some thought into your tyre selection, especially if you are serious about your mountain biking. A great place to start is to read the tyre reviews here at Bikemagic, look at what your fellow riders are using; watch and see how they get on, or talk to your local specialist bike shop. There are plenty of great tyres out there these days and the choice seems to grow by the day.

If your tyres have developed cracks like this, it’s time to retire them. Image by Cris Bloomfield via Flickr.

When you do find that one special tyre that does it all for you we suggest grabbing a couple or three pairs. Tyre makers have a bad habit of treating tyres as fashion items and dropping perfectly good tyres from the range.

What tyres for red rocks? Image by Vik Banerjee via Flickr.